The world’s four fashion capitals have completed fashion month. One fun thing about fashion week is that it presents a chance for us to see what the world’s great designers have to offer that season. This season, it was great to see how much better New York’s designers have become in terms of serving up forward-thinking fashion. New York has never been my fave (always been torn between Milan & Paris), but this season, the designers stepped up their game. Shows like Delpozo and Proenza Schouler put New York back on the radar of weeks to watch.
As we anticipate Heineken Lagos Fashion & Design Week, it’s time to reflect on the five key lessons we learned this fashion month.
- The 80s are back.
– Fellow Dynasty lovers rejoice! 80s references were rife on the runways this season. Power dressing came back in a major way this season and we couldn’t be any more excited. Jil Sander presented the exaggerated volumes and menswear-inspired textures akin to the time while Marni had looks inspired by 80s utilitarianism. One of the most obvious references was shown by Balenciaga whose creative director–Demma Gvasalia–named none-other than 80s icon Krystle Carrington as inspiration. From transforming skirts to near coat-hanger-like shoulders, the inspiration was clear and well-stated. Wear it well ladies!
- Your fashion must speak.
– There’s been an increase in the way that texts are incorporated into pieces to make bold statements. From “We should all be Feminists” at Dior to decrying the use of leather at Stella McCartney, some designers made their political views known via their Spring/Summer 2017 offerings. Haider Ackermann also kept with the vocal fashion trend with pieces that encourage every woman to “Be [her] Own Hero.” Nigerian designers aren’t far behind on this trend with brands like Orange Culture and Tokyo James having such pieces. It’s always great seeing fashion designers speak through their clothes and we hope this trend continues.
- Fashion designers must properly reference their inspiration.
Hell hath no fury like a race whose culture is appropriated and then improperly referenced; just ask Marc Jacobs. In the SS17 collection for his eponymous brand, the designer sent out models who were donning dreadlocks with his designs. The models used in the show were somewhat diverse so that wasn’t the issue. The problem was that when asked for the hair inspiration for the show, the stylist–Guido Palau–said it came from Lana Wachowski, Boy George and rave culture i.e. not a single black reference. As most people know, dreadlocks are akin to reggae culture. Therefore, it wouldn’t have been far-fetched to expect a mention of Bob Marley, or even more contemporarily, Lauryn Hill as a reference point. This sent the internet ablaze with people bashing the designer who then made the greatest mistake of all: he called the allegations rubbish and asked why black women weren’t criticised for straightening their hair. This then led to further backlash and a schooling for the designer on the differences between cultural appropriation and assimilation. He has since apologised. That’s how important it is to properly reference. It’s not just for university essays anymore!
- When in Paris with over $10m worth of jewellery, KEEP SECURITY AT ALL TIMES!
– By now, almost everyone in the world with some form of technology has heard about Kim Kardashian West’s scary Paris robbery. The reality star was fully in the swing of Paris Fashion Week and sitting front row at the biggest shows in the city of lights. She took to Instagram and showed off her rings (worth millions of dollars) given to her by her hubby Kanye West. On October 3rd, Mrs. West was bound and gagged by robbers who made their way into her residence by threatening the concierge. The robbers locked her in a bathroom then made away with jewellery worth over $10m. It was discovered that she was without security at the time because her bodyguard had been assigned to her sisters Kourtney Kardashian & Kendall Jenner who were out with Kim’s assistant. Soon after leaving police custody where she gave her statement, she boarded a private plane back to the USA where she was joined by her hubby. This whole scenario just goes to remind us that security should never be taken for granted, especially when during fashion week where the air is light and fun.
- Mayowa Nicholas is a STAR!
– One girl, 4 fashion capitals, 43 shows! Need we say more? SS17 was the season of Mayowa Nicholas. At a point, it seems to be a game of “spot Mayowa” as the homegrown face was a staple on almost every major runway all through fashion month. Prada, Hermès, JW Anderson, Chanel, Elie Saab and Ralph Lauren are just a fraction of the shows the budding supermodel strutted her stuff for. Now signed the Elite Model Management worldwide, we cannot wait to see the heights Nicholas continues to climb in the industry.